From the 1920s, singers and actresses such as Gladys Bentley or Josephine Baker made daring appearances dressed in white tie and tails and opened a door to a masculine interpretation of women’s wardrobe. In the 1930 film Morocco, Marlene Dietrich played a cabaret performance wearing a full white tie and top hat in one of the most legendary scenes of the cinema history. Women started to wear some “stolen” garments from their husbands and even ordering pants or shirts to their tailors.
Nowadays Le Smoking continues to be an absolute must have for women that want to express their own femininity through an always seductive androgynous attitude, perfectly captured by Helmut Newton for French Vogue in 1975.
Photograph by Helmut Newton
But the culminating moment in this revolution took place some years later in 1966, when Yves Saint Laurent launched Le Smoking, a feminine reinterpretation of the classic tuxedo that soon became the elegant and sophisticated option for that liberated women in the beginning of the 70’s.